Impressions from Georgia. Impressions of Georgia, Tbilisi and Georgians Contrasts and amazing architecture
Let's start with the fact that I ended up in Tbilisi by chance and, unfortunately, not for long. However, even a couple of days in the capital of Georgia was amazing - after all, this is our first trip together with Valieva. So we tried to cram as much as possible into this short period of time. And it seems we succeeded.
I arrived late at night, so the first thing we did was go to bed. We lived in an apartment near the city center. There was a gate that opened with difficulty and a green light in the bedroom, like in the Slytherin common room.
In the morning, as soon as we opened our eyes, we immediately went for a walk.
The first thing that catches your eye in the city center is the abundance of Russian text. Almost everyone here speaks Russian – and to say that it is discouraging is an understatement. Yes, this is a former Soviet republic, but in comparison with Azerbaijan, the difference is colossal. The second thing that not only catches your eye, but actually knocks you off your feet, is the huge amount of wine: in shops, restaurants and wine bars.
This was the first trip for which I had not prepared, so we explored the charming old streets and wide avenues at random. The tourist center has a lot of souvenir shops, carpet shops and restaurants serving Georgian cuisine - which is not too surprising. Boutique hotels, hostels and apartment buildings of the old city are hidden in the alleys.
The walls are a separate attraction:
Real beauty can be found in the alleys: it’s like a millionaire in Vladivostok, like the vintage city of Porto in Portugal... Charmingly dilapidated houses, artistically crumbling jokes and doors, each of which you want to photograph.
A separate attraction is the balconies: from the hypnotizing patterns of forged latticework to tall structures with wooden carvings.
And the doors, of course. If I had a couple more days in Tbilisi, my entire camera roll would literally be filled with them.
And a few more side streets:
Quite quickly we reached Rustaveli Avenue, the main artery of the city, where most of the city’s significant buildings are located: parliament, the National Gallery, theaters and cinemas, shops, hotels...
Near the Rustaveli cinema and several theaters there is a local analogue of the “Walk of Fame”. By the way, films here are shown in Russian and Georgian.
On the avenue there is also the Kashveti Temple or Kashveti Cathedral of St. George. despite its apparent “antiquity,” it was built in the 20th century. However, even he perfectly demonstrates the peculiarity of all Georgian churches: they are compact, laconic and indecently similar to each other. This unity has its own charm - the “sameness” of the churches makes them together a unique feature of Georgia.
Freedom Square is another attraction that you will meet along the way. Its main feature is that it does not feel like a square at all. If it were not for the monumental monument to Freedom with St. George slaying the dragon, then it could even be mistaken for a transport ring.
A couple of times we went down into the underground passages - here everything is expected: good old Chinese stalls with Chinese goods. If you think about it and remember how far the Celestial Empire is from here, then such a scale is truly terrifying:/
On the other side of the avenue there are book stalls, souvenirs and paintings by street artists:
In general, when walking around the city, you always pay attention to the details: there are so many of them that you don’t want to waste time trying to fit them into the frame. There are details of buildings in different architectural styles (art deco is surprisingly common), and paintings, and moments from street life, and just some little things that catch your eye and never let go. It's very easy to fall in love with Tbilisi at first sight.
When my Donetsk friends moved to Tbilisi and invited me to visit, I doubted for exactly 10 minutes, mainly about whether it would be possible for everyone to go to Batumi together by sea and how this would affect the size of my luggage. In order to save money and complete the impression of the country, I went to Georgia by bus from Rostov. I will not tell you the details about the purchase of tickets and the condition of the bus; I will note that there was not a single empty seat in the cabin and the air conditioning did not work, despite the hot August outside the window.
All the inconveniences and numb body were more than compensated for by completely unimaginable mountain landscapes; heroic-historical dramas, fairy-tale lands from fantasy productions and works of classics were immediately recalled. It should be noted that the route is not for the faint of heart, it is narrow, high and damn scary. When I told my neighbor about this, the whole bus shushed me in unison, although for most of the passengers this was clearly not their first trip like this.
The long journey and excellent drivers allowed us to get a lot of impressions from the beauty; at our request, we stopped in Kazbegi. The view from the observation deck is one of the strongest impressions, but for some reason I wanted to be rude to them for the hang gliders’ offers to admire this beauty more closely. Suicide for my own money was clearly not part of my plans. Again, during a long journey, my neighbor, who was married to a Georgian, and whose youngest son danced Georgian dances in a well-known group, told me about all the places that I definitely need to see in Tbilisi and the surrounding area. Many thanks to her, since not all of her recommendations can be gleaned from guidebooks, but it was so nice to visit the flea market near the Dry Bridge and admire the small but damn talented sculptures on Shota Rustaveli Avenue.
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For me, the country I visit is perceived by all senses: its smell, colors, taste of local food, communication with local residents wherever possible. Georgia is majestic and austere at first glance, slightly muted colors, noble shades of ancient fortresses and temples in full harmony with modern buildings. The exception was the monstrous blue Bridge of Peace, which in no way fits into the architecture of Tbilisi; it’s not for nothing that the locals call it Olweiss, after the name of popular women’s sanitary pads. The rest of the city, especially the old one, can be explored for more than one day, because every building here is a historical monument. On the banks of the river stands the Presidential Palace and immediately there are restored houses, the base of which is a solid rock formation, which ensures the reliability of such a building. The price of real estate in this area is not at all for poor people.
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Despite the very young age of its construction, all residents call the Tsminda Saneba Temple, an impressive architectural ensemble both outside and inside, the center and pride of Tbilisi.
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On its territory there is a cute cafe with the famous Georgian lemonade Lagidze Water. My escort assured me that the Coca-Cola concern had unsuccessfully begged for his recipe. But the stomach reacted ambiguously to this delicacy, although it is quite possible that this was a consequence of two days of tasting delicious Georgian wine and delicacies. Although I still regret that I did not show delight to my companion, I disappointed him so much.
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Georgians are proud of their country, their wine, their food and generously share their spiritual energy and time. When I couldn’t find the descent to the metro, a young Georgian woman took me by the hand and even paid me, although, at first glance, Georgian women are gloomy and arrogant. The impression dissipates a few moments after communication, since everyone is happy to try to help, but there is already a language barrier. Young people practically don’t speak Russian, but you can at least communicate with them in English; the older generation, especially those with a good education, quickly remember Russian speech, but the rest only speak Georgian. Although, if you want to explain yourself, you will figure it out, because everyone who was within a radius of 50 meters will come to your aid.
Georgian men deserve special attention; they are woman-loving, but incredibly patriarchal. When my wonderful neighbor on the bus said that they would stare at me, I didn’t fully understand what she meant. Despite my knowledge, at first they really put me in a stupor, because they have a habit of stopping abruptly and peering intently at the woman they like. There is no need to be afraid of this, since no aggressive actions will follow, and this applies not only to acquaintances, but also to any passerby or motorist. With a decent response and self-possessed behavior, everything will be limited to compliments and various invitations and propositions. Although, as I understand, only native Tbilisians are so well-educated, one can also expect negativity from visitors.
I visited all the main attractions during the week I spent in Tbilisi, I was amazed by Mtskheta, Jvari, beautiful Tbilisi, its buildings, temples and museums. I ate delicious pkhali and shish kebab, but I had no luck with my beloved khinkali. It’s my own fault, even in amazing Georgia you don’t need to hope for a perfect dish in places where crowds of tourists gather. No, everything will be fresh and tasty, but my gourmet habits are not satisfied. So approach this issue headlong, read the reviews carefully, because every Georgian will assure that only in his village or region can they make real wine, proper kharcho and shish kebab, ideal pelamushi and churchkhela.
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The city is remembered for its contrast, delicious cuisine, amazing architecture and kind, helpful people.
Georgia is an amazing country, which in 10 years has gone from one of the most corrupt and dangerous places for tourists in the world to a state where there is neither corruption nor serious crime. It is not rich, not yet prosperous, but actively developing and striving to take its rightful place in the modern world.
In this article I will talk about my trip to the capital of Georgia, Tbilisi - what I remember and liked, I will share my impressions and mood. It was an interesting experience in comparison with previous trips to distant and not so foreign countries. For anyone interested in the topic, I also recommend reading:
Upon arrival at Tbilisi airport
What does iManiac and any other tech-savvy and modern comrade do when they find themselves in another country? That's right - first of all, organize your mobile Internet. Navigation, access to social networks and mail, cheap calls abroad - that's all. In most cases, the best and cheapest option is to buy a local SIM card.
As practice has shown, for those who need to make a lot of calls from Georgia to Russia, a local card is suitable “ Beeline" - the most favorable tariffs in this regard. But the situation with the Internet is worse due to weaker coverage compared to other local operators. For myself I chose Geocell, providing 6 GB of traffic (LTE) for 30 days for 15 lari (approximately 460 rubles). I also added 5 GEL for voice calls. Quite budget-friendly, especially when compared with tariffs in European countries. At the same time, I received excellent coverage both in Tbilisi itself and in the outskirts of the city (including at the foot of Kazbek, 200 km from the capital).
I bought a SIM card right at the airport, which took no more than 10 minutes. A nice girl quickly completed everything (a passport is required when purchasing a SIM) and activated the necessary services on the spot. Moreover, she provided advice on budget travel from the airport to the city. Actually, this consultation covered all the expenses for mobile communications, twice.
International airport in Tbilisi
At the exit from the airport, taxi drivers greet you first, briskly offering their services. The point is to get to the city in 20–30 minutes in a breeze and get to the right place, which makes me happy. But pay for it 40 lari(1220 rubles) I don’t want to at all, especially after consulting a mobile operator employee. By the way, it is possible and necessary to bargain with taxi drivers, since after the first refusal an offer was made to take us there for 25 lari(770 rubles), which is already more pleasant.
But as soon as you walk literally 15 meters forward from the airport doors, you get to bus stop. Transport runs every half hour, and in 30–40 minutes it takes you to the city center (stop “ Freedom Square"), which costs only 0.5 lari (16 rubles) per person. It was this most budget option that the girl who sold the SIM card told us about. Yes, then you will have to get to your destination on your own two feet (or using public transport), but you already have the Internet and navigation, so this will not be a problem.
First acquaintance with the city
I flew to Tbilisi with my wife in the evening around 20:00, so the first acquaintance was fleeting, but it was remembered by the sea of lights. The entire city is literally buried in the light of lanterns and backlights, which looks very impressive. Churches, unusual statues, restaurants, wine shops with chic signs, architectural monuments.
And we’re not just talking about the center - the city is illuminated everywhere and completely, which was clearly visible during the bus ride from the airport.
Contrasts and amazing architecture
Tbilisi is a city of contrasts. Incredible, ultra-modern buildings coexist with ancient buildings and places with real devastation, although it is mainly concentrated in the so-called “Old Town”, which is only a small part of the capital. However, in many places I saw municipal employees engaged in the repair and restoration of buildings.
According to the residents of Tbilisi themselves, 10 years ago there was such devastation throughout the city, but through the efforts of the new authorities, the capital was mostly put in order, preserving its Asian flavor. For example, these ancient ruins in the city center were left there on purpose and turned into a kind of open exhibition - they are several thousand years old:
And look how cool the old houses and other elements look, including the ancient lantern:
All this is adjacent to such beauty (the trip fell in November, so the weather turned out to be cloudy):
In general, there are a lot of amazing and unusual buildings in Tbilisi. I have never seen such an abundance of forms in one place anywhere else. You don’t have to look far for examples. Take a look at city amusement park:
What do you think of the first photo of the leaning tower? But that's not all. Is there some more Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theater, connected to the cafe " Do not be sad! unusual clock tower:
Every hour an angel appears on the tower, ringing a bell, and at noon and at 19 o'clock a whole puppet show takes place here.
Do you want modern? There is a lot of it in Tbilisi! For example, a glass and steel pedestrian Peace Bridge across the river Kura. It is amazing in itself (although some locals sarcastically call it a “pad”, they say, its shape is similar to a feminine hygiene product and does not fit into the general urban style), but when it gets dark, the backlight turns on and a real light show begins. Moreover, LEDs are even built into the glass of the transparent sides of the bridge.
No less interesting concert hall building, located next to the mentioned bridge.
But all these are just flowers against the background of those ancient buildings that have been preserved in Tbilisi and its environs.
Antiquity and antiquity
Tbilisi has a huge number of different kinds of cultural monuments. Buried here A. S. Griboyedov and a pantheon of writers and public figures of Georgia was formed Mtatsminda. There are more than a dozen churches and temples of all kinds in the capital, including Jvari, built in the 6th century. There is plenty to see for lovers of history and antiquity, but let's start with the city's impressive landscape, where you can find a gorge and even a waterfall.
Didn't find the waterfall? Don’t rush, I’ll tell you about it as part of the experience of visiting the Tbilisi sulfur baths. In the meantime, let's walk through the temples and interesting antiquities. Yes, I was impressed Anchiskhati Basilica(also known as the Church of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary), which is the oldest church building in Tbilisi (dating back to the 6th century), and is still operational.
No less interesting was the cable car ride, which led to ancient fortress Narikala, who defended the city in the past. On the territory of the fortress you cannot even say that you are in the center of Georgia. In one of the photos below, pay attention to the church Lurgi Monastery(Blue Monastery), beautifully located on a hill. Erected at the end of the 12th century.
If you find yourself in Tbilisi, be sure to visit the pantheon of writers and public figures of Georgia Mtatsminda, and at the same time take a ride on the local funicular. This is a kind of necropolis where many of Georgia’s famous writers, artists, scientists and national heroes are buried, including the above-mentioned Griboedov and his wife Nino Chavchavadze. In total, there are 48 burials around the Temple of David located in the center of the complex. In addition to it, there are two more church buildings on the territory of the pantheon: the Church of the Iveron Icon of the Mother of God and the Church of the Transfiguration, plus three holy springs. In addition to the fact that there are very picturesque and beautiful places there, I remember the local caretaker, who organizes a real sightseeing tour for everyone who is interested, completely free of charge. Usually it can be found next to Griboedov's grave.
Are you bored by the abundance of cultural monuments? As I said, there are really a lot of them here. So, if you plan to visit Tbilisi, count on at least a week - there is a lot to see. And so that you don’t get bored now, dear readers, here are some Georgian cats:
Did you smile and cheer up? Let's go to the bathhouse!
Sulfur baths
This is another important part of a trip to Tbilisi, which I recommend to everyone to plan. In addition to the fact that sulfur baths are useful and perfectly relaxing, in the surrounding area there are simply incredibly beautiful places that you would not expect to see practically in the center of a modern city. Somehow this oasis reminded me of the center where they are located. In general, missing the Tbilisi baths, compactly located on sulfur springs, is the same as coming to Paris and not climbing the Eiffel Tower. But first things first.
Baths Quarter(Abanotubani) is the oldest part of Tbilisi, where the first settlement of Tbilisians originated. It was the warm springs that gave the city its name: “ tbili"in Georgian means" warm" We chose Samepe Abano or the Royal Bath.
The bathhouse is located right behind me - you can even walk on its roofs
Considered the oldest of all, it stands out for its excellent interior design, inexpensive massage (5 lari or about 155 rubles), beautiful and comfortable private rooms. True, the cost of such a room is not budgetary - from 50 to 100 lari (1500–3000 rubles). Also note that if you decide to visit the bathhouse with a group, you should reserve a place in advance and arrive 15 minutes before the appointed time.
The procedure itself resembles a visit. That is, the basis is natural hot springs. Rinse off in the shower and warm up for 5-10 minutes in a pool of sulfurous water (temperature up to 45°C), which nourishes the body with microelements and perfectly heals the skin and joints. During breaks between swims in the hot pool, you can treat yourself to delicious local tea with jam. Like the Turkish and Japanese baths, the Georgian one is very relaxing, unlike the Russian one, which is invigorating. That is, it is advisable to plan your visit so that you can then go to rest or even sleep.
But before you go to the baths, be sure to take a walk around the surrounding area - into the gorge with a sulfur stream and a waterfall.
Trip to Mount Kazbek
This is another reason, along with the sulfur baths, why I recommend targeting at least a week’s visit to Tbilisi. Of the seven days, one should be allocated for a trip to Mount Kazbek, which will allow you to plunge into the history of Georgia, see the most picturesque places and, in the process, visit several interesting sights at once. And at the same time, feel what it’s like when your ears get clogged not on an airplane, but in a car. The fact is that during such a trip along Georgian Military Road The height difference will be up to 3000 m. It’s an interesting feeling :).
The Georgian Military Road through the Main Caucasus Range, connecting the cities of Vladikavkaz (North Ossetia) and Tbilisi (Georgia). Length 208 km.
Our small group was very lucky with the weather - the day was sunny and cloudless, although windy. Although, according to our guide Vano, it's always windy there. Still mountains.
We left early in the morning and the first attraction on the way to Mount Kazbek was Jvari monastery and temple.
This is a 7th century building located on the top of a mountain at the confluence of the Kura and Aragvi rivers near Mtskheta...
...And one of the masterpieces of architecture in terms of perfection of form, plus the first World Heritage Site in Georgia.
The temple is really very beautiful, especially in the morning sun. I personally was interested in touching such antiquity and it was amazing to realize the memory that such a monumental and impressive building preserves.
Next stop - the ancient city of Mtskheta, founded in the first century AD and being the first capital of Georgia. Only over time did this title pass to Tbilisi. Nevertheless, Mtskheta remained the spiritual heart of the country. It was here that Christianity was adopted back in 327 AD. By the way, this is what the Jvari Temple from Mtskheta looks like:
The town is small, by modern standards more like an urban village, but very cozy, clean and beautiful:
Be sure to take a look inside - the atmosphere and beauty of the temple impressed even me, a person who has a very relaxed attitude towards Christianity and religion in general. And this despite the fact that I saw the largest temples in Hungary and visited the monumental mosques of Istanbul.
From Mtskheta we went to the next important point of our trip - to Ananuri fortress(also called a castle).
It served as the main stronghold for the Aragvi Eristavis, the rulers of this region. In modern times, this cultural monument is famous for its preservation. Ananuri Castle is one of the most famous sights of Georgia, which has preserved towers, walls and even ceilings in some places. Exact information about when the castle was built has not been preserved. One of the towers dates back to the 13th century AD, but Ananuri gained fame precisely in the 17th century, when it was the residence of the Aragvi Eristavis. It is worth noting that in those days the fortress was much larger and only its upper part has survived to this day.
But the most interesting part of the fortress is located inside Assumption Temple, built in 1689. Besides it, in Georgia there are only two or three temples built in the 17th century.
If you go down a little, you can explore the mysterious ruins, including another temple, but already dilapidated.
Next stop - Mount Kazbek or rather its surroundings. This is the easternmost five-thousander of the Caucasus (5033.8 m in the Baltic altitude system), an icy peak and an extinct stratovolcano. The last eruption occurred in 650 BC.
The mountain got its name from the village Kazbegi, adjacent to it. Ossetian name Urshoh means " white mountain" In turn, Georgians call it Mkinvartsveri, which translates as " mountain with ice peak».
The first ascent to the top of Kazbek was made by a 23-year-old Englishman D. Freshfield in 1868. Among the interesting sights, it is worth highlighting the ancient cave monastery complex located at an altitude of about 4100 m Betlemi. At an altitude of 3675 meters is located old weather station building, which is now used as a shelter for climbers. A little higher, on the way to the top of Kazbek and at an altitude of about 3900 m, there is modern small chapel.
Interesting fact- September 10, 2013, 45-year-old President of Georgia Mikheil Saakashvili climbed Mount Kazbek, becoming the second president-climber of the post-Soviet space after the President of Kazakhstan Nursultan Nazarbayev(at the age of 55, at a mass alpiniad on June 30, 1995, he climbed Abai Peak - 4010 m).
I didn’t climb the mountain, but I took a photo against the background :)
But in this photo, if you look closely, you can see to the left of the ice peak Trinity Church on the mountain above the village of Gergeti.
A couple more photos of local beauties:
After breathing in the clean mountain air, we went to a local cafe " 5047 m"(I recommend!) try Georgian cuisine. Fortunately, the time had already come, and the stomach was growling diligently, demanding khinkali and kebabs.
So we will smoothly move on to another attraction for which it is worth visiting Georgia...
Georgian cuisine
In the spring of 2014, when my wife and I, the taxi driver recommended that we forget about any diets and be ready to put on five pounds in a week or two. Well, I can say the same about Georgia with its rich cuisine and long traditions.
I leaned more heavily on meat and greens for strength reasons, but still I tried a little of everything, and received a lot of rave reviews from friends and my wife. In fact, more than one article could be written about Georgian cuisine, and interested people can easily find a lot of information on this matter. I’ll briefly tell you what I liked and what I can safely recommend.
Firstly, I leaned on churchkhela. I love this ancient Georgian delicacy, which I have tried more than once before, but only now have I appreciated real churchkhela.
The dish is prepared from natural ingredients and without added sugar. It is based on grape or pomegranate juice, peeled nuts (walnuts or hazelnuts) and wheat flour. Depending on the grape variety, taste, sweetness, and aroma vary. In addition, there is also honey churchkhela - it is the sweetest. In Tbilisi, one stick of such a delicacy in crowded tourist areas costs 2–3 lari (65–95 rubles), depending on the size. In Mtskheti it is a little cheaper. A cool and filling thing to take with you on the road as a snack. By the way, in ancient times churchkhela was part of the diet of Georgian soldiers, as it is very nutritious and does not spoil for a long time in any conditions.
Be sure to try it local kebab- it is beautiful, regardless of the meat from which it is prepared. Georgians have a normal attitude towards consuming any meat, including pork. It's funny that lamb and pork dishes are much cheaper here than veal and beef. In Asian countries, Ukraine and Russia, it’s just the opposite. I myself mostly leaned on pork skewers.
No less beautiful are Georgian dumplings called khinkali. Unlike classic dumplings, where minced meat is used, in Georgian dumplings the meat is beaten with a knife until it becomes jelly-like. Although there are a lot of types of khinkali and also fillings. Don't be shy - try everything. During the week of daily testing, there was never a time when we didn’t like any of the options.
Another delicious national thing - khachapuri. And this is not just cheese bread, but a full-fledged second course, which is delicious everywhere in Tbilisi. So don't worry about the location of your meal, whether it's a street food joint or stalls near the metro. There are many variations of khachapuri, including those where aromatic herbs are added to the cheese, sometimes an egg, and sometimes beans instead of cheese. Again, everything is very tasty.
Georgian chicken salad surprised me no less than khinkali. If you order it, do it carefully, as the portions are huge and there is sooo much meat. In fact, a medium-sized citizen can get enough of one of these salads. It contains chicken (it feels like they took half the bird and put it all into one serving of salad), mayonnaise, herbs, onions and some other ingredients. All together - tasty and satisfying.
Georgia also has excellent cheeses, soups, and the cuisine in general is gorgeous. So feel free to go to any establishment, of which there are a huge number in Tbilisi, and try it.
Also don’t forget about persimmons - they are very tasty in Georgia and cheap. It’s also worth relying on local mineral waters. I actively used Borjomi, which in Tbilisi costs three times less than in my hometown.
Georgian wines are a separate conversation, but I’m not the interlocutor here, since I prefer stronger drinks and even then extremely rarely. I can only say that my wife was wildly delighted with the local wines. The prices are very different, there are some that will easily leave a tourist without pants. If you want to try wines on a budget and taste delicious, look into local hypermarkets. Before leaving, it was there that we purchased several bottles for gifts and samples, on the recommendation of a store employee, and even got involved in an event of unprecedented generosity. It turned out delicious and inexpensive. Don't expect to get cheap local wines at duty free, quite the opposite. Prices for the same items differed by 2-3 times, not in favor of the duty-free store.
And a little more Tbilisi
The week in Tbilisi turned out to be very interesting, educational, and I want to go back there again. For example, in the summer. Friendly people, beautiful places, excellent cuisine, relatively budget-friendly when compared with trips to Europe or other foreign countries.
Finally, some more photos from Tbilisi and the surrounding area. How do you like this Georgian November?
Or a funny monument:
And here is the monument " Mother of Kartli"at the top of Sololaki hill. In one hand she has a sword for those who came with the war, in the other - a cup of wine for friends and guests. Nearby there are a bunch of mobile coffee shops with very tasty coffee:
On Freedom Square in the center of Tbilisi there is an impressive " Freedom Monument"is a monument depicting St. George slaying a dragon:
During one of our evening walks we suddenly came across a local iPhones office:
But no, it turned out to be a service center for Apple equipment:
Friends, dear readers, travel! I wholeheartedly recommend that you try this type of vacation if you have only had the experience of a “beach vacation.” Those who understand how magnificent the world is and that you can really get to know it only by visiting far beyond the boundaries of your small cozy world in the form of your own sofa, I wish you more opportunities for such adventures.
From August 31 to September 13 I was in Georgia. Visited many towns and places - Tbilisi, Kutaisi, Kumistavi, Gergeti, Batumi, Gelati, Sarpi, Borjomi, Aspindza, Akhaltsikhe, Vardzia, Anauri, Khertvisi, Stepantsminda, Mtskheta and Sarp (Turkey)
What did I definitely like? These are, of course, mountains. And in particular - the mountains in the vicinity of the Georgian military road (this is the road connecting Russia and Georgia). The beauty there is extraordinary! I saw Kazbek, its peak covered in snow. I liked the city of Tbilisi. I wouldn’t want to live there (more on that below) but the city is beautiful, unusual buildings, hilly terrain and therefore many beautiful views. I liked the medieval city in the rock of Vardzia. I liked the remake in Akhaltsikhe - Rabat Fortress. I liked the food. I liked the wine, lemonades and mineral water. I liked all the changes that Saakashvili brought to Georgia (I will tell you below). I liked the Prometheus Cave in the vicinity of Kutaisi. I liked the Zhinvali reservoir (pictured). I liked the waterfall in Tbilisi.
What didn't you like?
Beggars and beggars. In Tbilisi, every 40 meters there are grannies and other beggars, begging (sometimes for quite a long time and persistently), gypsies, including children, are walking around, babbling about “give me some bread,” everything in Russian. But when talking with the gypsies, I realized that they do not understand what they are being told, they have a broken record. You sit in a cafe and people come up and beg. The owners of the cafe drive them away, but it is useless. In the vicinity of the old city, 3 times I came across a gypsy man pushing a child in a stroller around these streets and loudly asking for bread. In the evening, women stand at the exits of supermarkets with their hands outstretched. This is all terrible. I have never seen anything like this in any country.
Lack of pedestrian infrastructure. The sidewalks are busy with everything but pedestrians. On them are cars, goods from neighboring shops, and a large number of stall owners and their friends are sitting on stools and chairs. It's impossible to get through. I saw bicycle paths only in Batumi, but in Tbilisi the use of bicycles is impossible due to the strong difference in altitude. The few underground passages are destroyed by tags and always smell of urine.
Terrible enforcement of traffic rules. Arriving in Moscow, I breathed a sigh of relief! On a zebra crossing without traffic lights, NOBODY will give way to you! Crossing the street is very dangerous. And drivers violate all existing prohibitions (we often drove there in cars) - they don’t fasten their seat belt, if they see a patrol ahead, they casually throw on the belt, but then immediately take it off. They talk on the phone, although they assured us that this is what they charge the heaviest fines for. They cross a solid median, drive at a speed of 110 on a mountain serpentine road, overtake dangerously and even drink while driving (I saw it myself).
Smoking in a cafe. You can smoke in the cafe. We chose establishments with open street verandas - it’s easier there. Europe has not yet reached Georgia in this regard.)
Where have I been?
The capital and the most normal city. Of course, with the shortcomings that I described above. Beautiful. In the center you can say it’s European, but if you step away a little, the roads don’t even have asphalt and the courtyards are terrible. Many temples, various monuments, cafes. But there are very few supermarkets. A ride on a minibus costs 50 tetri (14 rubles). On the metro - the same amount, but you also need to buy a card on which this money is placed for 2 lari (56 rubles). The same card is also valid on the cable car. The view from above is very beautiful. This card does not work on the funicular; there is a different system from Mtatsminda Park, which also allows access to all the attractions there. In the park itself there is a Ferris wheel installed on the very edge of the mountain, the views are superb.
There are a huge number of taxis in Tbilisi! Incredible! A taxi is a car of any color with checkers on top. These are mostly old Mercedes, and right-hand drive cars are often found. I talked to people, found out that cars are bought in Japan or the USA, travel in a container by sea to Poti, clear customs, and all together it costs from 3 to 5 thousand dollars! I have seen our square Zhigulis, but rarely. In rural areas I often saw Zila trucks with such a recognizable front.
I lived in Tbilisi in the Vake district, for some reason considered prestigious, although I didn’t see anything special there. Not far from Vake there is a zoo, which was recently flooded and which was going to open on September 13 - the day of my departure.
Graffiti in Tbilisi is represented mainly by stencils (the main author is Dr.Love) and kereks from Lamb. There are almost no murals. Many buildings are tagged. In Vake Park I found works by the French, whose works I later saw in Batumi. All these are traces of the 2013 festival.
I visited many places in Tbilisi, it was interesting to walk around it, unlike Batumi. The waterfall near the sulfur baths was my favorite! And you wouldn’t guess that such a place could be in the city center. A narrowing high gorge and at the end a waterfall.
From Tbilisi we drove along the Georgian military road towards Russia. Extraordinary beauty. The Zhinvali reservoir is very beautiful, and closer to the north there are stunning mountains. Along the way we stopped at different places, including at the highest point of this road (2395m). We landed in Stepantsminda (until 2007 - Kazbegi), transferred to an SUV and along the most terrible road climbed the mountain where the Gergeti Temple is located. Kazbek is visible from there. There is unreal beauty there! This is probably my favorite place in all of Georgia.
Also from Tbilisi we went to Borjomi (some kind of Karlovy Vary), to the ancient city in the rocks - Vardzia (super, worth a visit, you can climb some passages there, very scary) and to Akhaltsikhe, where under Saakashvili the Rabat Fortress was restored almost from scratch - an excellent tourist attraction where you can climb absolutely all the supposedly ancient towers and do long photo sessions, since there are very few people there.
I didn't like the city. A typical resort town with stalls, shawarma and beach entertainment. That's not mine. I was frankly bored there. The only joy was the remaining graffiti from the 2013 street art festival, when French writers came to Batumi. The city is also enlivened by various glass high-rise buildings built during the time of Saakashvili. Without them it would be completely creepy. There are very few supermarkets. I liked the long (2.5 km) cable car, the views from the top are very good.
One day I boarded a bus, paid 80 tetri (23 rubles), drove to the town of Sarpi (14 km) and crossed the Turkish border. On the other side the town is called Sarp. There is nothing there except a couple of cafes. You can't even buy a magnet. The nearest city of Trabzon is still more than two hours away. I walked half a kilometer along the highway along the Black Sea, looked at the heaps of uncollected garbage left by truckers and stomped back to Georgia. At the border checkpoint there are crowds of locals with some pieces of paper instead of passports. There are few Russian citizens. I had never been to Turkey before and didn’t even plan to, but since the opportunity presented itself, I received a stamp in my passport. This is my 17th country. I'm not going to Turkey anymore.)
Kutaisi. I was passing through and the city seemed terrible. Cows roam among the high-rise buildings. But near Kutaisi there is the village of Kumistavi, where Saakashvili opened the Prometheus Cave in 2011. This is a cool place, we walked 1.5 kilometers underground, then they took us a couple of hundred meters underground on a boat (they gave us helmets and life jackets). I’m not spoiled by such sights and I liked it.) It’s a pity you can’t take pictures there with a flash, but without a flash it’s a little dark. I have already been to Georgia (now the territory of Abkhazia) in a cave - in New Athos 35 years ago, it also made an impression.
I tried the following Georgian dishes:
- Khachapuri. Sold wherever possible. I liked the Imeretian one the most - just a flatbread with cheese. And there is also Adjarian - they also add an egg.
- Chakhokhbili. Small chicken pieces in sauce. Delicious.
- Shashlik. You can't chew it.
- Kebab. I discovered kebab in lavash. But it is not edible everywhere. I found a cafe where it was very tasty and went there three times.)
- Churchkhela. Sweetness on a string of grape juice. You can have a snack.
- Kharcho. I haven't tried it, but others have liked it. This is soup.
- Khinkali. Did not like! In a large bag of dumplings there is tasteless meat and something like soup.
I also tasted wine in Georgia. We bought a bottle almost every evening (five of us went, so it wasn’t enough for everyone) Here is my rating:
1. Saperavi (homemade, red, dry) - super!
2. Alazani Valley (red, semi-sweet) - very good!
3. Khvanchkara (red, semi-sweet) - very good!
4. Saperavi (red, dry) - very good!
5. Kindzmarauli (red, semi-sweet) - so-so
6. Twishy (white, semi-sweet) - sucks
Well, I tried the local vodka - Chacha - a rare suck. Taste of grapes.
I also tried various mineral waters, which are sold in huge quantities in Georgia! Moreover, Borjomi is not the best (in my opinion). The most delicious is Nabeghlavi. This is something like Narzan or Arkhyz. Another similar one is Mitarbi. I drank this water in huge quantities because it was hot. There is also Likani, but this is a complete copy of Borjomi, because their sources are nearby. A liter of Nabehlavi costs from 90 tetri to 1 lari (28 rubles) in a supermarket. In tourist places it can cost more than 1.5 lari.
I really liked the local lemonades! Especially Natakhtari and Zandukeli. Many types, delicious. I saw Natakhtari on sale today in Moscow.
Interesting observations:
The flags of Georgia and the European Union hang on government institutions (the Adjarian flag is added to Batumi)
Almost everyone knows Russian. True, in 2 weeks I found two people who don’t know Russian.) There are inscriptions in Russian everywhere. Even on the Georgian-Turkish border, 4 languages are used - Georgian, Turkish, English and Russian. So Tbilisi, after visiting Minsk, is the most Russian-speaking city.) Tel Aviv is probably in third place.)
I talked to several Georgians. Everyone remembers Mikheil Saakashvili with warmth, like under him they built this, did that, but now they are doing nothing. They praise him for the non-corrupt police (we were all warned to bribe police officers), for the fantastic simplification of bureaucratic procedures. Many interesting objects appeared under Saakashvili. For example, in Tbilisi there is a whole Rike Park with elegant glass buildings, the Peace Bridge and the Reagan monument.) And this year the lari has fallen significantly, now they give 2.37 lari for a dollar, and six months ago - 1.7.
People treat Russian tourists very well, they don’t talk about politics, they are friendly. In some cafes you can see Ukrainian flags.
In general, it was a good trip, in some places it was beautiful, but often it was boring and uninteresting (for example, in Batumi). I will gradually post photos.
